Monday, April 28, 2008
Southern French (Provencal): Bouillabaisse and Salad Nicoise
Bouillabaisse may well be my all time favorite meal. It is a pure and straightforward preparation yet it still has a certain mystique that separates it from the everyday.
All cuisines with which I am familiar, at least all that were developed with some stretch of seacoast available, have a dish similar to Bouillabaisse (Ex. Italian Brodetto, or Cacciucco Livornese, Spanish Zarzuela, or Greek Kakavia). Its origin is just like that of the rest, it is a fisherman’s stew based on the very flavorful yet lower in demand products of their efforts. The name tells the story; based on the French terms bouillir (to boil) and baisse (waste). Using rock fish common to the Mediterranean, such as scorpion fish, conger eel, St. Peter’s fish, angler fish (monkfish), sea bream and whiting, French fishermen assembled a flavorful array from what used to be less popular species. Today we recognize the value of these fish; no longer “trash” fish, they have become highly sought after choices, and, as such, have become much more expensive than once upon a time.
Producing a “true” Bouillabaisse requires the use of at least some of these native Mediterranean fin fish as well as an assortment of crustaceans. Can you produce a Bouillabaisse with native species instead? Of course, but you need to re-name the dish to account for the origin of this different version.
Bouillabaisse is traditionally served in its two main components; the fish and crustaceans are removed from the soup and piled high on a platter while the soup is served separately in a tureen. A traditional accompaniment is a toasted crouton topped with rouille, which is a spicy red pepper and saffron laced version of aioli.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Who doesn't love cookies?
Today the students are experimenting with mixing methods and makeup methods [drop, bar, icebox, rolled, cut, pressed, spritzed, wafer, stencil]
Adjusting Cookie Textures
For Crispness:
High Fat<>Low Liquid<>Strong flour<>Thin dough<>Well done
For Softness:
Low fat<>High liquid<>Weak flour<>Thick dough<>Underbake
For Chewiness:
High fat<>High liquid<>weak flour<>Thick or thin<>Underbake
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Friday, April 18, 2008
Cafe Class 4-2008
Gazpacho Deconstructed
avocado cup filled with pazpacho vegetables, tomato coulis and crab
Main Courses
Roasted Squab Breast
with caramelized banana, chorizo, champagne gelee and banana foam
Sea Scallops
roasted with a gratin of celery and salsify, orange-hazelnut reduction
Desserts
The Smokeless Cigar
cigar-shaped moist chocolate cake with raspberry jam, covered in ganache, with rum swirl ice cream
Tropical Sorbet
blend of guava, pineapple and strawberry served in a baby pineapple
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Scandinavian Dinner
European Cuisine Class landed in the Scandinavian region today. The four countries that comprise the region (Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland, though I also think Iceland and even Greenland should be included) have a remarkable culinary history which is commonly overlooked by chefs today.
Common Scandinavian Ingredients:
Lots of fish (especially Herring and Cod)
Wild game (reindeer, when they don't fly away, and elk)
Plenty of dairy (cheeses, butter, cream, sour cream)
Herb, spice and seasoning choices include dill, horseradish, fennel, anise, cardamom, allspice, caraway, mace and nutmeg
Fruits and vegetables (apples, beets, cherries, raspberries, cabbages, cucumbers, onions, rutabagas, potatoes, cauliflower, and spinach)
Classic Scandinavian Dishes:
Gravlax: salmon cured with salt, sugar and lots of dill
Smorgasbord: buffet presentation featuring cured meats, seafood and vegetables along with a variety of cheeses and breads
Frikadeller: forcemeat shaped into meatballs or patties
Sillsallad: herring and apple salad
Morbrad Med Svedsker Og Aebler: Pork loin Stuffed with Prunes and Apples
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Canapes
The concept of canapes originated as small open-faced sandwiches. Today, of course, we pay little attention to classic definitions for the most part. Canape production can be as varied as your imagination will allow.
For the more traditional canape a "base" is created {small piece of bread, cut to size and shape then toasted} spread with some sort of flavorful butter or spreadable cheese or maybe a flavored mayonnaise. This spread prevents the bread from drying out, acting as a moisture barrier, while simultaneously adding flavor and textural contrast. On top of this we add the "main ingredient", the "Star of the Show", and a garnish. The garnish works to allow a fresh, appealing presentation.
Canapes fall under the more general category of "Composed hors d'oeuvres", a category which also include such other preparations as barquettes, tartlets, spoon presentations, and profiteroles (savory pate a choux puffs)
More modern versions of canapes do not restrict themselves to bread as a base. Other choices? Sliced vegetables, fruits, wontons, hollowed out tomatoes, endive or other leaves, polenta, vegetable crisps, and on and on.
Monday, April 14, 2008
Ice Carving Class
Today was a perfect day for carving outside; cool enough to work without the block melting quickly away; warm enough to not be so distracted by shivering.
The intial design is roughed out with the chain saw, then a series of hand chisels and/or dremels, routers, flat irons, and various other tools are used to smooth and add details.
the carver needs to watch the ice carefully; its texture and opacity evolves as time goes by. Ice carving is an art of the moment. Each piece evolves and passes through a series of differing effects based on the light source, total amount of light, light angle, temperature changes and, of course, the artistry of the carver as they make final adjustments.
Friday, April 11, 2008
More to follow on Garde Manger Technique.